Troubleshooting: Offline Hubs, Stale Sensors and Missing Notifications

What to check when your hub reads Offline, a sensor reads Stale, readings stop arriving, or an alert never reached you.

Most "it stopped working" reports come down to one of five things. Each one has a badge or a chip in the app that tells you which, so read the badge first and then jump to the matching section below.

The five status badges#

Statuses are drawn as a pill with a shape and a word, never colour alone.

Sensor badges use exactly those words, and a sensor only ever shows ● Normal, ◆ Critical, ○ Offline or ◷ Stale.

Hub badges keep the shape and the colour but show the hub's own word instead: ● Online, ○ Offline, ◆ Error or ▲ Updating. So ● Online on a hub card and ● Normal on a sensor card are the same badge.

Offline and Stale are drawn muted, with a dashed outline, on purpose. Losing signal is a gap in the data, not a danger. Offline is never painted red unless you ask for that under Settings, in the How alerts look on your screens card, where When my hub goes offline offers Info - I unplug it all the time, Warning - worth a look and Alarm - treat it as something wrong. It ships on Warning - worth a look.

Your hub reads Offline#

What you will see#

• On Hubs, the hub card shows ○ Offline and a Last seen: line with the time it last checked in. The filter row above the cards counts them, for example Offline (1).
• On the Dashboard, the status panel at the top lists it as a row: the ○ Offline badge, the words <your hub name> is offline - readings paused, and how long ago it last checked in. On the shipped setting that row sits under the heading Needs a look rather than in a red banner.
• On the hub's own page, the Device Health panel disappears. It is only shown while the hub is online, so its absence here is expected and is not a second fault.

Why it happens#

Your hub checks in with your account every few minutes. If nothing arrives for about 10 minutes, your account marks the hub Offline. The hub reports its own state on the next successful check-in, so it goes back to Online by itself. Allow a few minutes after you fix the connection before you worry.

The hub's owner is emailed when this happens, as long as Email me is switched on under Settings. At most one of those goes out per hub per hour: a hub that keeps dropping in and out will not fill an inbox.

What is still happening while it is offline#

Your hub does not stop working when it cannot reach the internet:

• it keeps reading your sensors and storing the readings on the hub itself,
• alerts marked Works offline ✓ keep running on the hub and still show on its own screen. Alerts marked Cloud-watched ☁ do not: those need the hub online to notice anything. The chip is on the alert's card and on the last step of the alert builder,
• when it reconnects, it uploads everything it buffered, and those readings appear in your charts at the times they were taken, not at the time they arrived.

If several alerts fired and finished while you were disconnected, you get one catch-up summary rather than a burst of late emails, and it costs nothing against your daily limit. Those alerts show the chip In the catch-up summary. Anything still going at the moment the hub reconnects skips the summary and is sent to you normally.

What to do#

1. Check the hub has power and its light is on.
2. Check the Wi-Fi the hub uses is working, and that the internet behind it is working. A campground network that has re-armed its sign-in page looks fine to a phone but blocks the hub.
3. If the network is up but the internet is not, the hub tries your other saved Wi-Fi networks on its own. It waits for several failed checks in a row first, so give it several minutes before intervening. It will not move to a network flagged as metered, such as a phone hotspot, unless that has been switched on for your hub.
4. To look at the hub directly, connect a phone to the hub's own Wi-Fi network (its name starts with RoamVitals-, and the password is printed on the card that came with it), then open http://roamvitals.local in a browser.
5. On that local screen, the Reports page has a Sync Status and a Pending Queue section showing how much is still waiting to upload. That is the honest answer to "is it getting through", because the Cloud sync · on pill at the bottom of the sidebar only means the hub is linked to an account. It reads Local only when the hub has not been claimed yet, and it does not change when the internet drops.

A sensor reads Stale#

What it means#

Stale means the hub still considers the device connected, but no new reading from it has reached your account in over 30 minutes.

On the Dashboard you will see it written out:

Fridge has been quiet for over 30 min - probably fine, just no signal

If several are quiet at once it reads 3 sensors quiet for over 30 min - probably fine, just no signal. There is no button on that row. It is a situation, not an alarm, so there is nothing to acknowledge and nothing to dismiss: it clears itself the moment a reading arrives.

What to do#

1. Check the hub first. If the hub is Offline, every sensor on it will drift into Stale. Fix the hub and the sensors follow.
2. Open the hub and find the sensor's card. The reading time is printed under the values. Times from today show as a clock time such as 2:04:11 PM; anything older includes the date, such as Aug 15, 11:52:07 PM. The sensor's own page shows the current values without a time, so read the time from the card.
3. Check the signal. The sensor card shows RSSI: -91 dBm when the hub reported one, and the Sensor Info panel on the sensor's own page shows the same under Signal. A number closer to zero is a stronger signal. If it is very weak, move the sensor closer to the hub or move it away from metal, a full water tank or a fridge wall.
4. Check the battery. If the device reports one, Battery appears with the other readings as a percentage. Replace or reseat it.
5. Check how often the device is meant to speak. Sensor Info shows Polling in seconds, for example 300s. A device set to a long interval that has missed a couple of turns can cross the 30 minute line without anything being wrong.

If the hub has a lot of sensors, the chips beside the search box on the hub page filter the list: All, connected, disconnected, error and unknown.

A sensor reads Offline or Critical#

○ Offline means the hub is reporting the device as disconnected. The hub does not leave a device looking connected forever: after five read attempts in a row that fail to reach it, the hub rebuilds its connection from scratch and reports the device as disconnected, which is what turns the badge from Stale into Offline.

◆ Critical on a sensor means the hub reported an error reading it. It waits longer between attempts each time, up to five minutes, and after three errors in a row it rebuilds the connection. The rebuild also reports the device as disconnected, so a sensor that stays broken usually settles on ○ Offline rather than staying ◆ Critical.

Both usually clear on their own once the device is reachable again. If one does not:

1. Open the sensor and check Sensor Info. Confirm MAC matches the address on the device, and that Type is the device you actually own.
2. Replace the battery and power-cycle the device if it has a way to do that.
3. Move it within clear range of the hub for a few minutes to prove the pairing still works.
4. If Type is wrong, delete the sensor and add it again with the correct type. There is no way to change the type of an existing sensor: the pencil on the sensor page only renames it. A sensor added as the wrong type is accepted but can never decode a reading.

No readings are arriving at all#

Work through these in order.

1. Is the sensor set to be saved? Each sensor card carries a switch with a chip beside it reading either Saved or Live only. Live only means the readings pass through while you are looking and are never written down: no history, no charts later, and no alerts while you are away. The hub still records and alerts on it locally.

2. Are your saved-sensor slots full? Above the sensor cards you will see a line such as 4 of 4 saved sensors used - to save another, stop saving one first. When the slots are full the switch on an unsaved sensor is disabled and its tooltip reads Your plan’s saved-sensor slots are all in use. Untrack another sensor to free one. Turn one sensor off to free a slot. Sensors carrying a safety alert do not use a slot and cannot be switched off here at all.

3. Is it your browser, not your RV? The chip at the top right of the Dashboard shows 2 online when the live feed is connected and simply Offline when it is not. That chip is about this browser's connection to your account, not about your hub. Refresh the page.

4. Are you watching a Live only sensor from the wrong page? Live streaming is asked for while you have the hub's page open, and stops when you leave it. The sensor's own page does not ask for it, so a Live only sensor opened directly will look silent.

5. Is the hub online? If not, go back to the hub section above. Nothing new will arrive until it reconnects, and then it will arrive all at once.

A notification never came#

Nothing is dropped silently. Every alert appears in the app whatever happens to the email, and once an alert has been through delivery it carries a chip saying what happened to the message. Go to Alerts, find the alert on the Active or History tab, and read the chip at the top right of its card. Hover or focus it for the full explanation. Old alerts from before this existed, and rows that were never handed to delivery at all, carry no chip.

The four settings that most often explain it#

Open Settings and check the Notifications card:

1. Email me is a single switch. If it is off, nothing leaves the building, including the hub-offline email and safety alerts.
2. Email me about is your floor, and it offers Everything, Warnings and alarms and Alarms only. Alarms only means warnings never email you. This applies to everything, and an individual alert can only be made quieter than this, never louder.
3. Quiet hours, with From and To times. When they are on, warnings are held and arrive as one summary in the morning. Alarms and safety alerts always break through. The Active tab of the Alerts page then carries a strip reading Quiet hours 22:00-07:00 - warnings wait for the morning. Alarms and safety alerts always come through.
4. Your timezone. Quiet hours and your daily email count follow this clock, yours, not the RV's. Leave it empty to follow the RV.

Nothing on this card takes effect until you press Save Preferences at the bottom of it.

Then check the alert itself#

• On the Your alerts tab, the bell-with-a-slash icon is Mute this rule, with presets of 1 hour, 4 hours, 24 hours and 3 days. Once muted, that icon is replaced by a chip reading Muted until 09:15 AM; clear it with the X on the chip. On the Active tab, an alert from a muted rule adds the line Notifications paused for this alert until 9:15 AM - we are still watching.
• If your plan has a daily limit, a meter appears above the tabs on the Alerts page. It reads 3 of 15 email alerts left today with resets 12:00 AM beside it while the limit is being enforced, and 4 email alerts today when the limit is being counted but nothing is being held back. Devices you star are exempt from that limit, and carbon monoxide, propane and smoke alerts are never limited at all.
• If emails were paused for volume, that same meter adds A lot of alerts have gone out in the last hour, so emails are paused until 4:20 PM. They still appear in the app.
• To prove delivery end to end, open the alert for editing, go to the last step, Review, and use Send a test. It only works once the alert has been saved; before that the button is greyed out and the page tells you Save first, then send yourself a test to be sure it reaches you.

A device that cannot be read#

If a device never produces a single reading after you add it, the cause is almost always in the fields you filled in.

Open the hub, choose Add Sensor, and check:

• Sensor Name is required, but it is only a label. It cannot stop a device reporting.
• What kind of device is it? The list is grouped by what the device is for, for example "Temperature and humidity". If your device is not in that list, either it is not a device the hub knows how to read or it is not included on your plan. Adding it under a similar-looking type will not work.
• MAC Address must match the device exactly, in the form AA:BB:CC:DD:EE:FF.
• Polling Interval (seconds) is filled in for you from the device type when you pick one. Leave it alone unless you have a reason.

Add Sensor stays greyed out until the name, the type and the MAC address are all filled in.

If the type list cannot load, the dropdown is replaced by a plain Device type text box reading We couldn't load the device list. Enter the type code if you know it. If the list loaded but has nothing in it for you, the same box reads No devices are available on your plan yet. Enter the type code if you know it. Either way, wait and try again rather than guessing a code.

A sensor added with the wrong type is accepted and then never reports, which looks exactly like a broken hub. If you suspect that, delete the sensor from its own page and add it again. The delete asks what to do with any history it did collect, and re-adding the same device restores whatever you kept.

Worked example: the fridge sensor went quiet#

You open the app on a Sunday morning and the Dashboard shows:

◷ Fridge has been quiet for over 30 min - probably fine, just no signal

1. You go to Hubs. The card reads ● Online with Last seen: 8/16/2026, 9:14:02 AM. The hub is fine, so this is the sensor.
2. You open the hub and find the Fridge card. It shows ◷ Stale, GVH5075 · A4:C1:38:9B:2E:7D, RSSI: -91 dBm, Temperature: 38.1 °F and the time Aug 15, 11:52:07 PM. So the last reading landed just before midnight, about nine hours ago.
3. -91 dBm is weak, and the reading time lines up with the moment you parked the rig with the slide-out in. You move the sensor to the front of the shelf.
4. Within a few minutes the card shows ● Normal and a fresh time such as 9:21:36 AM.
5. Nothing was lost. The hub kept its own record, and the readings it had buffered fill in at the times they were taken.

Had the hub card instead read ○ Offline with Last seen: 8/15/2026, 11:48:10 PM, the fridge would have been a symptom and the hub the cause, and you would start from the hub section above.